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Noisy Cricket (75 CJ-5)

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Driving home the other day the pinion in the rear-end decided to give out.  At first, I heard something that seemed a little off about a mile from home and kept going.  The closer I got home the uglier things sounded and the Jeep would shutter with each pop.

So now I get to replace the ring and pinion.  I've got everything apart, now it's time to hunt for part and tools.

Yeah Mike, I think you are right's an air flow issue.  I've got that fan from a Lincoln Mark VIII so I'll just throw that in before I spend any more money to fix something that isn't the issue.

Mike Reynolds:
A high efficiency 2core like they use in nascar will keep the engine cooler than a typical 4 core. So it all depends on the type of 2 core you have. If it only runs hot at slower speeds then it’s probably an air flow issue anyways. I have had luck with the Flexalite series 1300 flex fans in the past when other fans didn’t get the job done

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Have a couple of issues that I still need to sort out.

The carb seems to run a little rich at idle and it tends to the foul the plugs when I'm wheeling. It's fine when I'm pounding the pavement so it's only a problem when I'm off-road.  I've been toying with the idea of getting EFI but I think I want to try a couple of things to see if I can get this carb dialed in.  I just realized the coil is nearly 20 years old, good lord it seems like I put that in yesterday.

The other issue is cooling, again only a problem off-road.  The mechanical fan can't pull enough air across the radiator at idle, I have an electrical fan, just need a controller and I can install it.  However, I just remembered that the radiator is just a two core job.  They are big cores and it supposed to be up to the task at hand, but I have to wonder ...enough to make me consider getting something a little better.  I guess it will all depend on how much in taxes I need to dish out.

Finally got the front-end all squared away and what a pain it was...

Last year, I broke a u-joint splayed out the ears on my driver side axle shaft.  Not surprising as the front-end is locked putting a lot of stress on the joints going into the turns.  I decided that putting in a set of RCV’s would be the best path to help with this issue.  Yes, I know it doesn’t solve the problem but I’m hoping these will be up to the task.

First, a huge shout out to Josh from RCV Performance.  There were a couple of issues with my order as this was a custom application and he was simply awesome throughout!

I wish that I could say that just getting the axles was the biggest challenge but it wasn’t.  Since they don’t fit through the steering knuckles I had to figure out how I was going get these things installed.  There was nothing online that even came close to helping so I was clearly on my own.  Adding to the fun, getting some simple parts proved to be a tad frustrating.  It’s done now and this was how.
First, I have a Dana 44 from a Scout or a mid-70’s Wagoneer that was cut down to CJ spec’s.  These are the steps I took to install my RCV axles, I’m not a pro by any means so keep that in mind.
     1)  I removed the steering knuckles  - I did this first to replace the upper and lower ball joints.  The uppers can not be greasable, there won’t be enough
          room for the new RCV joint.

     2)  Reinstalled the knuckle but only torqued the lower ball joint. I did this so I could grind down the lower ball joint stud to make more clearance for the joint
          (suggested by RCV).

     3)  Removed the knuckle and safety wired the joint to the inner side.

     4)  Installed the orange dust cover on the inner shaft and inserted in the housing.  Liberal amount of molly was applied to the inside and on the top side of
          the dust cover.
     5)  Reinstalled the knuckle – it’s a bit of a fight and you do have to push hard on the dust cover to move it out of the way.  The molly on the top helps by
          allowing the bottom of the upper ball joint slide in place. Once it’s in place follow the normal installation procedures for the knucke.

     6)  Remove safety wire and install joint on the inner shaft.  That’s not too bad but to get the dust cover on I pulled the shaft up tight against the knuckle and
          used a pry bar to push it on the joint from behind …worked really well.

     7)  Install the outer shaft in secure it with the roll pin

     8)  Pray to god that you never have to remove any of this….

After that it was the rest was standard stuff to reassemble the front-end.

I did replace the inner axle seals and all the tie-rod ends while I was in there.  I also used Nord-Locks for my hubs so I don’t expect those bolts to loosen up anymore.

So now that is fixed, I now need to rework the carb so the engine isn’t running so rich and address the cooling issue.


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